Work must make a profit, of course, but alongside ethics, dignity, morality. “We need to bring dignity back to the heart of work.” Brunello’s dream is the evolution of a new humanism
Text Carlo Mazzoni. The African American community is working the system: from the Kardashians to the talent of Drake, Rihanna and Kanye West. Supreme rap talent and media power.
Text Matteo Mammoli. Brooks Brothers celebrates 200 years, now with 280 stores in the United States and more than 700 in over 45 countries around the world.
In the somewhat debasing language of a fashion system, it would be just another IT Bag. For those who wish to be less trite, the Dior Saddle Bag means marketing and culture, in the best of summaries.
Text Jacopo Bedussi. Following June’s menswear session, there’s a feeling of suspension. After having achieved the peak of the street parabola, now we are facing an alienating standstill. Today, Streetwear is a blob which has chewed everything – but what is it going to happen?
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Sweet-sounding South America expands the vision of the Mexican rodeo and blends with the harpsichord of Chantilly’s rooms. The sovereign is an alchemist, a bit Merlin, a bit Tiger Man – anyway the husband of a queen of France. Yesterday evening, the Cruise collection by Dior was presented. #DiorCruise
Text Carlo Mazzoni. As in the best love stories, one need not agree on everything. Pathetic maxims – when you’re in love, as you well know, nothing else counts. From the pulpit, the priest would begin his sermon: “Let us skip the first reading as it is depressing. Whoever wrote it was suffering from poor digestion.”
Text Carlo Mazzoni. The simplicity of the light, a lamé dress, silvery and sparkling. The prints were produced using four-colour printing – Versace was the first to print with eighteen colours, sometimes even twenty. Andy Warhol gave Gianni permission to use his paintings in his clothes. More is more – Neo Baroque.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. It’s about what will prove to be up-to-date as regards aesthetics in the future: in fashion, films, TV – generally in the media. Two men. The first man is the protagonist of Guadagnino’s movie, Armie Hammer. The other one is Matt Smith, duke of Edinburgh in The Crown. Their eyes shine, full of seriousness.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Hermès is complicated, like a novel with multiple narrators that unfolds on three axes of time.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. A ten-minutes film that tells about a job interview for a position at a magazine editorial office.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Milan was sparkling like at the times of Durini with Wally Toscanini amidst Arbasino’s words. Teatro Gerolamo is a miniature of La Scala: Fiammetta Cicogna has given new life to contemporary plots. Clodia was the first emancipated woman in the history: it will be touring to Italy in a few weeks.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Change – Anna taught me the concept. Fashion is the literature of the time that is passing, and that scientific laboratory of aesthetics has rules as rigid as those of chemistry. “Fashion looks like a circus, but in reality it involves absolute hard work”. In the throbbing engine, an obsessive rigour reigned.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Caravaggio, divine and demonic. Supreme grace in his art and a life in revolt, against decorum and against the law. He painted sanctity and embraced sensuality – his work is disturbing because nobody else was as clever at producing a synthesis of the two. His painting entitled Bacchus, depicting the Greek god Dionysus says it all.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Acqua di Giò is that glass of water which you drink so peacefully in the morning as you wake up.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. The kiss scene was the first to be rehearsed. The two actors had just met, just arrived on the set. A not too grassy glade is the set of the rehearsal of scene no. 71 – the two actors skim over the script – there are no words in this scene, it’s all about making out – poking, kissing, touching each other.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Bishops and queens, Dior’s flowers femininity gives the diagonal to military uniforms for a war of chess. From the ceilings, Dalì’s hands, halved watches, drunk redbreasts cages. Surrealism that arises from an analysis of the founder’s art, from his curiosity for paranormal subjects.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. A journey that narrates the Havana post-revolution, the one crystallized by the embargo by the United States of America. The city tells everyone what is socialism, where to find still stilt houses e polished Cadillacs; three-wheeler taxis, ivory and t-shirt with Che Guevara’s face.