In the somewhat debasing language of a fashion system, it would be just another IT Bag. For those who wish to be less trite, the Dior Saddle Bag means marketing and culture, in the best of summaries.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. The company Zegna, icon of formal and Italian clothing, decided to enter into the debate on Streetwear. Its intervention was based on the cultural and aesthetical content, recalling Oscar Niemeyer, his shapes made of reinforced concrete, his rhythms, signs and harmonies.
Text Jacopo Bedussi. Following June’s menswear session, there’s a feeling of suspension. After having achieved the peak of the street parabola, now we are facing an alienating standstill. Today, Streetwear is a blob which has chewed everything – but what is it going to happen?
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Rapper pants for legs dancing at Venice Beach, volumes interplay with the body without nagging it, fabrics, grammage and composition, after one or ten washings, is a competitive topic. In brief, the catchline is: when it comes to clothes, the more you know, the cooler you are.
Text Jacopo Bedussi. In 2001 the swan dress of the Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski. People will talk about it everywhere, among charts, loves, hates, parodies, so much to earn a “the Björk’s swan dress” page all for itself on Wikipedia. Interviewed on the subject, «It is just a dress» she replies. What comes next is less aesthetic and more music.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Tomas Maier remembered a dress by Yves Saint Laurent – the model walked along the catwalk, it was impossible to understand how she had come into that dress, in that space. Fashion for Bottega Veneta is architecture for fashion.
Text Cesare Cunaccia. “It was as if we were drunk on success”, says Bob Krieger. He is referring to the Italian fashion explosion in the Seventies and Eighties, which brought about a total makeover for Milan. Bob Krieger came to Milan in 1967 and never left. His existence is full of superb anecdotes, and unforgettable encounters.
Text Claudia Bellante. Liberated says what are the American Spring Breaks and what college and university students do in the few days they have free each year: sex. On the beach, in untidy rooms and with people sleeping in the next bed, drunk, without protection, without memory and if it happens, even without consent.
Text Giuseppe Fantasia. In France like in Italy, Cafés plays a key role in social life, a sort of private a public salon together. A reference point for cafés in Milan, on the corner of via Montenapoleone and via Sant’Andrea, turns two-hundred and celebrates with a book published by Assouline.
Text Angelica Carrara. In the desert to soul-search. In Miami, a dj-set for Drake and Virgil Abloh – it is the Platinum House. “The question is to do things, not to buy things”, says Janey Whiteside, while defining a luxury code: “I remember my first Amex at the college, a legitimation. Independence and reliability in my hands”.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. While Italy is facing a crisis in which the secondary school certificates melt away like ice in hell, in France, Ghesquière transforms his aesthetic taste in complication, love and culture. Italy will return to its intellectual supremacy in Europe – meanwhile we experience the beauty of Paris gardens.
Text Giuseppe Fantasia. Salvatore Ferragamo’s city of adoption, Florence, celebrates him with L’Italia a Hollywood (Italy in Hollywood), an exhibition focused on art, craftsmanship and show which develops like the plot of a film. Staged at Palazzo Spini Feroni, in piazza Santa Trinità, from 24th May to 10th March 2019.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. Sweet-sounding South America expands the vision of the Mexican rodeo and blends with the harpsichord of Chantilly’s rooms. The sovereign is an alchemist, a bit Merlin, a bit Tiger Man – anyway the husband of a queen of France. Yesterday evening, the Cruise collection by Dior was presented. #DiorCruise
Text Rocco Moliterni. Eugenio Re Rebaudengo talks about the beginning of Artuner, the platform that has now become fully part of the international art market. From online platform to ‘hybrid’ platform, today it offers between five and eight exhibitions per year acting as a showcase for over one hundred artists
Text Cesare Cunaccia. Lee Alexander McQueen committed suicide at the age of forty, a few hours after the funeral of his mother Joyce. McQueen abandoned his real name Lee, under suggestion of his muse and discoverer Isabella Blow, who also committed suicide in 2007.
Text Maria A. Crespi. Pierce Brosnan arrived on purpose. Leonardo Di Caprio remained at home but Sting and Shaggy were celebrated guests, with Grace Jones who will be seventy years old on Saturday. At the Hotel Du Cap in Antibes, usually heavily guarded, where the charitable beauty night has been spent for years.
Text Lampooners. During the International Book Fair, we marked the sixty years since the first publication of Capote’s novel. The protagonists of the intellectual society of Turin – the one so shy and reserved that the rest of Italy is raising their eyelids – sat at the tables of the Cambio in an uneven mix that was adept at every party.
Text Carlo Mazzoni. In 1957, David Attie was thirty-six years old. He was an illustrator of posters, billboards and covers and was having a hard time of it; newspapers were shifting from drawings to photos, with the streets of Soho and the Village a magnet attracting wild, love-struck artists.