Editor’s Letter – Shall We
Sedona Legge in jacket Fendi, shirt Nabil Nayal, headpiece Slim Barrett; Photography Rankin. Caroline Schürch in Pre Fall 2018 Dior Collection; Photography Marie Schuller
Text Carlo Mazzoni
La Corona Ferrea – the Iron Crown of Lombardy – is preserved in Monza. Legend has it that one of the nails from the True Cross is incorporated in its structure. Commissioned by Theodelinda, it was the crown of Charlemagne and the kings of the Holy Roman Empire – Napoleon came down to Italy to place it on his head himself. A strip of Byzantine metal, re-crafted in the Middle Ages, it is possibly considered the most noble crown in the world – because even among crowns there is a difference, and their size and the number of precious stones used are rarely what counts. Elizabeth II said that her neck would have broken under the weight of the British crown – not figuratively, but literally: during ceremonies, the Queen was always careful not to make any strange movements with her head.
Displayed to the walls of the London Library, Evelyn Waugh wrote out the fundamental rules of behaviour: “Never write ‘balls’ with an indelible pencil on the margins of the books provided. Do not solicit the female librarians to acts of unnatural vice. When very drunk it is permissible to fall into a light doze but not to sing. Fireworks are always welcome in the reading-room but they should be of a kind likely to divert the older members rather than to cause permanent damage to the structure”. ***
Heterosexuality has a limit, homosexuality as well. In Cadaques in 1927, Dalì and Garcia Lorca made a female yearn and a male falter, eliciting fever and desire in both. Roy Strong designed Versace’s gardens on Lake Como. A dance with Virna Lisi was the culmination of an era that inspired nostalgia before it was even over.
The sacred and the profane. My confessor passed away this winter. An elderly man, struggling with every ailment imaginable – heart, eyes, oncology. Under treatment, but in constant distress. I would go to his home to administer an intramuscular injection of vitamins or medicine – I’m still a doctor – and to confess in his living room. I told him that I would have liked to sleep with both Alain Delon and Romy Schneider – up until the very end my confessor was true to his vocation, seeking to have me embrace convention and neglect tongues, breasts, and groins.
As in the best love stories, one need not agree on everything. A couple may have opposing opinions, but it’s the dialogue that counts. A fight, a different point of view, inflexibility: nothing threatens a strong relationship, a true marriage. Past mistakes, pathetic maxims, codes of conduct, institutions – when you’re in love, as you well know, nothing else counts. From the pulpit, in the church of a small town in Tuscany, the priest would begin his sermon: “Let us skip the first reading as it is depressing. Whoever wrote it was suffering from poor digestion.”
Gold and Bjork, the Madonnas of the Fourteenth century and Mies van de Rohe. Rankin took a portrait of an original, previously never seen queen, a mix between Claire Foy’s Shall We and the angst of Cersei Lannister. The exhibition at the MET in May was presented in Rome with the gracious presence of Cardinal Ravasi – Capucci’s garments will find new prestige in New York. The gold leaf of the Faena Hotel’s entrance hall in Miami – in Piazza Meda there’s the wheel by Pomodoro, the synthesis of Milan could be the stylization of a Phoenician mask, smuggled from the land of the Maya.
Literature becomes fabric, pop art finds Kenzo, Dalida, Boris Vian, Juliette Gréco, and Marie-Hélène Rothschild in her palace on the Île Saint-Louis. For Saint Laurent and for Lagerfeld, friends are a constant aesthetic stimulus, a laboratory of risks and courage. Multipliers of imagination, disinhibition, and freedom. A lover, a fleeting passion – jealousy gives rise to tension which becomes creativity, mental and physical instability. Happiness is not a priority, nor are health or tranquility. Dying, deteriorating – always and only beauty.
«Never write “balls” with an indelible pencil on the margins of the books provided. Do not solicit the female librarians to acts of unnatural vice. When very drunk it is permissible to fall into a light doze but not to sing. Fireworks are always welcome in the reading-room but they should be of a kind likely to divert the older members rather than to cause permanent damage to the structure».
From The Fashionable Lampoon, Aprile 2018, Issue 13.
In tutte le edicole dal 19 aprile.
Abbonamenti e acquisti online su Lampoon.it