Mister Frédéric Malle
Text Angelica Carrara
In September Frédéric Malle opened the second Italian store in the heart of Milano, in via Verri 2. We took the opportunity to interview the editor of fragrance. The complete interview on The Fashionable Lampoon – Magnifico, in newsstands from November. Here the extract.
How did you start to love perfumes?
«I’m rather shy, but I liked to court the pretty girls. I looked at their eyes. Their perfume told me the rest. It’s part of me. It’s part of a presence. When I didn’t know someone and I had a few minutes to figure them out, I would stand and take in their scent. It was a natural thing. That’s why at the beginning, it didn’t feel like work».
Don’t you think there are too many new perfumes?
«The pace at which products are launched has become crazy. There’s a limit, too, on information transfer. Mass market perfumery has killed this environment. The message is brief, focused on the new. And as a result, cosmetics firms feel obliged to produce again and again, to continually feed the market, behind a franchise that always has the same name».
Parfumeur, ton nom est personne – perfumer, your name is no one.
«I decided to return things to how they should be. To return the fragrances to centre stage, and to present the ghost-writer that is the perfumer. People said I was mad, that I was a megalomaniac. Then so many of them followed my path, including great brands who rediscovered selective perfumery».
How do you realize that lifetime of a perfume ends?
«You just know. At a certain point, it’s obvious. There is nothing else you can do».