Text Carlo Mazzoni
One day, Pitti and Milan will be a team, and the Italian dates will be given priority. Florence and casual and consumer wear – Milan and luxury houses, single-brand networks. At present, Florence grows, Milan drops – but American Express numeric data, transversally compared to the fashion sector, confirm the latter to be expanding compared to the first. Kiton, which is all about luxury, has not been attending Pitti for four years, letting the two de Matteis twins telling about sport lines. Numbers, sales and contradictions. Through the booths, garments and accessories covered in logos, chasing after Vetements – however a logo is a dream of what one cannot afford. Everybody dreams, no one buys Vetmentes.
From one side streetwear, on the other side the desire of having fun like a Kennedy at Rhode Island. Pitti Boys are seating in a corner on the side, showing-off in general has been overcome. For the 20-year-old today, the digital is taken for granted like air: you always breath in air, without thinking about it. It is no more – and it will not even be – a matter of selfies for youngsters who would do anything to pretend to be famous – getting dressed, in this age of Balenciaga, is an intellectual challenge which the undefined millennials are starting to grapple with (simply, the youngest guys). Rapper pants for legs dancing at Venice Beach, volumes interplay with the body without nagging it, fabrics, grammage and composition, after one or ten washings, is a competitive topic. In brief, the catchline is: when it comes to clothes, the more you know, the cooler you are.
Research and development are to be found amidst the most important items of each respectable company’s economic plan – and this engagement, especially as far as men’s fashion is concerned, can be understood at Pitti. This could be one of the reasons for which presentations in Florence – where fabrics and creations can be touched and studied – are catching on compared to the fashion show format, where we are distance-spectators. Stefano Guadioso Tramonte has pushed Corneliani towards silk. Linen, cashmere and cotton are blended with silk in different percentages: a different softness, colour absorption, breathability, light. Far, in the rearward, outside the main pathway, Sease’s corner: the project opts for Loro Piana fabrics, in particular Solaro, to process them at a technical and waterproof level connected with the sailing world. Volumes and reflections are tested with sun and grey, to be developed in contrast with the relaxed mood of streetwear, presenting an evolution of what Prada did with Luna Rossa years ago.
Riccardo Grassi announces a new format, RG Man: squared metres with new unknown brands. Woolrich is inspired by camouflage style, in partnership with Goldwin – American heritage and Japanese technology. K-Way presents a water-repellent and windproof cloth on which the Caribbean are designed with palms and parrots. Herno celebrates sixty years: a historical digression over its milestones – from the raincoat to Laminar pieces – with the L.I.B.R.A.R.Y installation, acronym of Let Imagination Break Rules and Reveal Yourself, at the Leopolda Station. Sebago – ex American brand, now belonging to the Turin-based company Basicnet (which also owns Kappa and K-way) tells about the Citysides – lace-up moccasins inspired by James Dean, and the Docksides – the sail shoes worn by the Paninari from the Eighties, with a suede and tricoloured variant. Giorgio Armani and the collection at the new store at via dei Tornabuoni. Emphasis on colours – each room has a different flooring, matched with silk panels on walls and drapery. Grey, blue and emerald blue. Roberto Cavalli brushed back hair at the Charterhouse, this new brand was born in Florence: Paul Surridge has whitened the classical animal print – but the fashion show is a déjà-vu, it describes what fashion was in the past but it does not say anything about what it is all about today. The end of an age – even in Florence it did not concern anything else, last night at the Brunello Cucinelli dinner at the Roster Tepidarium, (the biggest glasshouse in Italy, built in the second half of the Nineteenth Century): Tomas Maier, after seventeen years, has left the creative direction at Bottega Veneta. @angelicarrara
The London “cubist” Craig Green, Menswear Guest Designer of the event, has performed at the Boboli – also attending Moncler Genius, in the presence of Hiroshi Fujiwara, who is the author. The show Bonaveri a fan of Pucci – dreamlike and hyperchromatic installations, gathering patterns and deep colours of the brand together through an army of mannequins, have invaded great part of Palazzo Pucci, in the homonymous street. Mannequins focused on silent conversations, dancing in gym composts, even encapsulated into perfume bottles. Brunetto Cucinelli reconsiders the proportions of jackets and trousers with a softer approach and a fitting vaguely inspired by the 50s, he introduces a new tone of burgundy in his palette of greige and beige. Ermanno Daelli, very close to Palazzo Strozzi, has attracted the local nomenclature, from the Mayor Nardella to Renzi, for the opening of Scervino’ store. Paltò by Luca Paganelli subverts the classical lines of serious and waterproof parkas by means of urban culture graffiti. Druhmor fascinates with his almost poetical mixes of colours and delicate patterns, he proposes stripes in strong contrast, décalé vibrations and skilled tartan, he blends lively colours connected through the tones of intense pink violet, purple. The Saharan seersucker shirt by the Neapolitan Finamore is an object of desire that conjugates Anglophile elegance with lightness and sporty comfort, thus creating jackets featuring absolute off white, green, poppy red freshness. @cesarecunaccia