The Trench culture
Text Angelica Carrara
The future is waiting: it awaits the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci. In a transitional present, the trench coat, symbol of the maison, lends itself to styling games. Three iconic models: the Chelsea, a close-fitting tapered waist, narrow shoulders for women and rounded ones for men; the Kensington, more shaped, as the modern proportions want it; the Westminster with a relaxed fit.
Five stylists – Jack Borkett, Anders Thomsen, Victoire Simonney, Ruben Moreira and Danny Reed – have reasoned on the trench coat in a portfolio of shots by Thurstan Redding. Magazines and platforms in the world have often given rise to an aesthetic conversation, about the trench. HypeBeast plays on digital, Lampoon opens a styling session in Via Monte Napoleone – and a party at the Fonderie Milanesi, next Saturday.
A conversation: in English, there are thirty-five words to indicate the rain – for example, cloudburst indicates a short, sudden rain. The trench coat is a predicative of the rain – leaving out the umbrella that «was made to carry it on the arm, like a decorative bat», Gabriel Garcia Màrquez said – easy to say to a South American. In Casablanca, a departing airplane, Humphrey Bogart watches the rain blending with Ingrid Bergman’s tears. Marlene Dietrich is looking for the legionary Gary Cooper, in 1930: dressed as a man, in trench, she discloses the first gay kiss of the cinema. It is pouring down – Audrey Hepburn runs in search of Cat, the storm and her trench coat mark the ending – while Givenchy’s sheath was – please, note the coincidence – only the beginning.
The past seems far away. Christopher Bailey left the house after 17 years. A half bow with a jump and a kiss to his husband at the end of the show. The fashion show was a celebration of the last 40 years of British culture, under a rainbow of lights – the Our Time installation by UnitedVisuals Artist. The rainbow, symbol of the LGBTQ community – lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer – is an interrogation of the passing time, not only of the English fashion house, but of all England. The rainbow check is a declaration of freedom.