Chanel Hyper Couture
Text Cesare Cunaccia
Once again, Karl Lagerfeld’s many-sided and innovative talent takes our breaths away. And it is not for his white beards that he flaunted at the end of the Chanel haute couture S/S 2018 exhibition. Yesterday morning, an overview of sixty-nine dresses to be defined anything but masterful was presented at the Grand Palais, under the aegis of floral and romantic creativity which inspired the vaulted treillages covered by pale ancient roses, the pelouse and the central fountain, elements that staged a fantastic Bagatelle garden under the glazed vault of the Grand Palais. The fact is that Lagerfeld is an unrivalled couturier and the last of a kind indeed. Like nobody ever, even beyond those incredible leads overlapping and those delicate Lesage embroideries with microscopic corollae and buds, with rocaille garlands or tone little clouds made of pastel micro-sequins, like nobody ever he is able to create and make up such a shape and such a structural and dynamic game which embody the ultimate and most iconic essence of haute couture.
Tulip skirts, featuring different shapes, looseness and length but also trousers and new shorts. The shoulders of suits, the symbol of Chanel, enhanced and rounded looking at the Eighties, trapeze and flared silhouettes softened by applications of floating feathers, glows of strass over organdie petal flounces. Tulle to shade, to intone a hymn to lightness – the most significant, conceptual and virtuosic lightness. Untouchable tweeds of different weaves, combinations and nuances, sometime en suite with ankle boots with transparent Perspex platform. Neo-Victorian pastel mille-fleurs, a palette of delicate and bright tones of pink, cyclamen, every shade of green, up to olivine and emerald, with dashes of cornflower and black, ivory and water. Patterned overcoats and tunics vaguely inspired by the beginning of the Twentieth century, sidereal jump-suits made of lively silver sequins, mellow lace, dew drops on point-d’esprit tulles of veils pinned on the top by little bouquets. Finally, a bride, a female musketeer in optical white wearing sensual and Gascon cuissards, wrapped in a mountain of immaculate feathers, as temping as whipped cream.