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The Fashionable Lampoon
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angelo ruggeri

Art in constant movement

Text Angelo Ruggeri


Movement. Undulation. Constant, irresistible restlessness. The same that affects today populations,  financial assets, metropolis. In what ways such constant flows are organized, arranged, controlled and criticized? This is the interrogative posed by Driftwood, or how we surfaced through currents, the exhibition curated by Evelyn Simons that remains opens to the public until July 22 in Athens. The project will feature eleven site-specific works by Larry Achiampong, Meriç Algün, James Bridle, Hera Büyüktaşçiyan, Jeremy Hutchison, KERNEL, Chysanthi Koumianaki, Persefoni Myrtsou & Eva Giannakopoulou, Lara Ögel, Maria Papadimitriou and Lloyd Corporation. The artists use a variety of expressive languages  and deal with such topics through a series of individual projects that unravel along a path through the streets of the Exarcheia neighborhood, in the Greek capital.

The topics are explored through artistic contributions, like advertising and marketing, capable of covering up the exploitation carried out by globalized production processes; like labor ethics, the notion of  the home as a personal or collective construct, the structural limitations of human movement and thought, imposed or self-determined cultural identity and practices connected to community-building. Objective, strong, raw topics that do not allow to grasp any creative nuance but instead guide the viewer right into the core. Without half measures.

The exhibition is one of the three projects that came equally first (alongside those from Michael Wang and Adnan Yldiz) at Curate Award, the international contest promoted by Fondazione Prada and Qatar Museums and that aims at hunting for new talents in the realm of curatorial practices and for an innovative outlook in the conception of exhibition-making. That cannot necessarily remain still and static, but in constant movement. Just like art.

Images courtesy of Press Office
fondazioneprada.org – @fondazioneprada

The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion

Text by Angelo Ruggeri


Imagine seeing a unique, precious artwork of inestimable value. Imagine being able to see it up close, appreciating all the exquisite details. Yet, unfortunately, due to its fragile nature, the artwork cannot remain on display forever, giving everyone the opportunity to admire it. In fact, it will remain open to the public for a couple of weeks only. Then it will disappear into a mysterious archive where it will be treasured and preserved for the rest of time. It is this concept based on such elements as limited viewing experience, temporal tangibility and ephemeral life the inspiration behind Il Museo effimero della Moda (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion) opening in Florence, which will display a selection of fashion items dating from the mid-nineteenth century to the present. Some of the clothes will be showcased as part of the exhibition for the first time (since they were never previously removed from their storage boxes) while others will be exhibited for the last time before being returned to the archives due to their fragile and delicate nature. The available timeframe for a visit being an established and short one. No more. Beyond that there will be only a memory, the recalling of an emotion and the feeling it stirred inside. On the occasion of Pitti Immagine Uomo 92, the exhibition welcomes the public to the spaces of Galleria del Costume of Palazzo Pitti. Produced by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with Gallerie degli Uffizi and Palais Galliera, The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion is curated by Olivier Saillard and will remain open until October 22nd 2017.

The distinctive element of the exhibition lies in the innovative concept of both the staging and the thematic content. The collection on display features around two hundred items including clothing and accessories, spread across eighteen rooms. The garments, which reflect each room’s theme, were brought back to life thanks to the extraordinary restoration work carried out by the team of experts of Galleria del Costume and of Palais Galliera. Among the fashion houses and ateliers from the past whose creations are part of the display are – House of Worth, Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet, Irene Galitzine in Rome, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jole Veneziani, Biki, Maison romana d’alta moda Carosa, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix. However, contemporary designers are also featured strongly thanks to the recent acquisitions made by Palais Galliera, which brings a selection from the latest collections by the likes of Gucci, Maison Margiela, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano and Lanvin.

«The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion» said the ideator and chief curator of the exhibition, the Director of the Palais Galliera Olivier Saillard «is an occasion; an opportunity to reinvent Palazzo Pitti’s Galleria del Costume e della Moda. On mannequins of wood and wax, or abandoned on armchairs and seats, suspended as soft sculptures, reclining like sleeping beauties, the garments are the shipwrecked waifs of a mysterious, fragile and caduceus museum. It will disappear in a few months’ time, victim and witness to passing time. It is our hope that it may reborn in another time, another place, within the fickle walls of a museum, in the forgotten spaces of a building. That it will continue to raise questions about the transient nature of fashion but also about its poetic vitality; that in its nomadic meanders it will draw together sublime foundations and shifting frontiers; as it incessantly redefines itself, that it will become most beautiful, the fairest of all the world’s museums». Thus being remembered in eternity.

The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion
By Olivier Saillard

Museo della Moda e del Costume, Palazzo Pitti, Florence

June 14 – October 22, 2017

Opening times: Every day 8.30 am – 6pm

Images courtesy of Salvatore La Spina, Firenze Musei Press Office
www.civita.it – @socialcivita

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