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Chanel Haute Couture SS 2020 means a return back to the brand beginnings – a proustian madeleine devoid of nostalgia, searching for an imagination of Chanel before Chanel. Virginie Viard took inspiration from the childhood and adolescence of Mademoiselle, spent in the orphanage of the Aubazine cistercian Abbey, in Corréze. There, starting from 1895, the twelve years old Gabrielle, was educated for six years by the nuns of the Congrégation du Saint-Coeur de Marie. Mademoiselle Chanel will be imprinted by this experience, in the formation of her character, in her minimalistic idea of fashion. The show stage, in the space of the Grand Palais nave invaded by the morning light, this time was intimate. It was about a cloister ‘potager’, surrounded by white sheets hung out to dry. The shapes of the clothes were simplified: fitted tunic and tailleurs, curt chemises, mini skirt dress with symmetrical pockets and longuette ‘cloche’ skirts – transforming Chanel classical vocabulary in essential graphics. Jansenist attitude mixed with an austere early nineteenth century convent-schoolgirl. Romantic embroided tulle in length variation, white square neckbands reminiscent of Philippe de Champaigne geometric paintings. Harpsichord silver chords, mystic brightness and a touch of underlying mysterious sensuality. Black and withe, the Coco’s signature binomial, embodies the chromatic Leitmotiv, signing also the the most sophisticated of the tweeds. Guipure lace waves sometimes makes the edges and the shoulder line richer and more dynamic. Few other colors, in a translucent delicate palette. An embroidery network on a tailleur, simulates the leaded windows of Romanesque and Gothic cathedral. The shoes were just ultra-feminine two-tone ankle boots, at the same time vintage and contemporary.


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From the Scottish borders to Place Vendôme. Tweed de Chanel is the name of the new Haute Joaillerie collection of the Maison of Rue Cambon. The collection, presented at Chanel Horlogerie-joaillerie, 18 place Vendôme, for the first time drew inspiration from the tweed, iconic Chanel fabric, here transposed into precious metals, diamonds and colored stones. Ten different themes, among them, Tweed d’Or and Tweed Brodé, Tweed Chaine and Frangé, Tweed Cordage and Tweed Secret. A dozen of necklaces, ten pair of earrings and many rings, eight bracelets and three brooches and jewelry watches, plus a marvelous clutch. The palette is organized around a gradation of delicate colors, white especially – then black, yellow and rose gold, a distillate arpeggio of orange, green, red and yellow touches. The different sized stones are arranged to create a tweed texture. The gold structure is articulated to offer each piece the same suppleness and dynamic of an item of clothing. Many articulations were necessary to obtain the peculiar fluidity of the pieces. For the creation of the main collection item, for example, the Tweed Couture necklace, more than 980 articulations were assembled. Each one takes circa one hour of work (it’s the most expensive piece in the collection, at 3,700.000 euros, and combines platinum and rose gold with pink sapphires, spinels- the most important one is a cushion-cut spinel of 10.57- and diamonds, including one cushion-cut of 10.20 carats. In the other creations they are also present imperial topaz, tsavorites, cultured pearls, lacquer, mother of pearl, yellow gold, yellow sapphires and the graphic insert of domed onyx.


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