What if Women Ruled the World? This question was raised by the American artist Judy Chicago, becoming an inspiration for the Dior Spring/Summer 2020 Haute Couture collection, amongst an interior by the same feminist artist – 80 years old – at the Musée Rodin. Maria Grazia Chiuri embodied mythology and archetypes, suspended between force and delicacy, exploring the relationships between feminism and femininity. Athena and Venus, the Nike of Samothrace and a nymph of the Botticelli Primavera, with her ‘ottoman’ mantle, sprinkled with embroidered flowers. The peplum becomes evening dress, it’s transformed in a conceptual knotted chiton. The lines are fluid – far from the sculpted volumetric outfits we saw last July. Drapes are the keyword, following the body and adding structure and energy to the silhouettes. The palette starts from a powder of antiqued gold and bronze getting to green, red, mauve, grey and violet vibes. Madame Grés is in the air with the column and caryatid dresses. Gold is everywhere: in the jacquard ‘tailleur bar’, in the jewels redolent of Lalanne poetry, Vergina Macedonian treasures, and Pasolini Medea, in the metallic fringes of the asymmetrical tunics such as in the hellenic flat sandals. Short capes in chiffon are dematerialized by pleated tulle, skirts and pants – becomes tuxedo with more masculine materials. Chiuri never stops to change, while enhancing Dior’s codes.
In the following video, Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri discusses how the Dior Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture inspirations came together to make a captivating collection, from the goddesses of antiquity to contemporary feminist art.