The curtains falls on 50 years of of history of fashion and on a way of thinking fashion. Jean Paul Gaultier, the Enfant Terrible, brought on stage, in a sold out (with over 2000 guests and friends), his last Couture show, going through in just one collection, many of the images and and themes build over decades of work in Atelier. The show begin with some b/w frames of the movie Who are you Polly Maggoo?, 1966 by William Klein. It is a funeral, with a real coffin that arrives to the beat of music in the middle of the stage. One might say, ‘Couture is dead!’, ‘Vive la Couture!’, Jean Paul plays with irony and leaves the stage on his way, with a lot of noise and no regrets, by promising in the end new adventures. Around him all the past and present icons of his provocative and libertary verbum, Rossy de Palma the firework, Blanca Li, Yasmin LeBon, Béatrice Dalle and Amanda Lear in pull mini-skirt lamé, Anne Cleveland, Carla Bruni and Arielle Dombasle, even the Greek singer Nana Moskouri. Some of them went out on the runway, making sensation, together with Gigi and Bella Hadid, Winnie Harlow and Karlie Kloss. Then the collegues, Christian Lacroix, Nicholas Gesquière, Dries van Noten, Mary Katrantzou. Jeans, corsets and macro belts overlays, kabuki geishas en-travesti, mariners and marinières, the breast implants, androgyny and genderless, something that Jean Paul Gaultier invented first. Confettis brought to life from the archives, literally roughed up, deconstructed and reconstructed, camou-parachute mantels, skirts made of foulards, ties, pyramids of ribbons, chinese fans, and vivid embroidered patterns. ‘What I really love to do is mixing up, especially the things you would never put together!’. Métissage as a keyword. Nothing goes lost, everything changes, in haute couture: filet embroideries, gloves, fans, baby-dolls, beaded bags back fro the 80s, ties, sponge combinations reminiscent of Max Ernst surrealist frottage. An all mixed frontier of genres, fabrics, materials, people, cultures and social strata.
Paris Haute Couture – Jean Paul Gaultier SS2020
By Cesare Cunaccia|2020-01-31T16:53:38+02:00January 25th 2020|