Paris Fashion Week commenced on the 23rd of September. The theme at large: material reinvention. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri translated Christian Dior’s love for botany and gardening into new dyeing techniques inspired by nature, such as batik. They were presented in a degradé that gestured to the Maison’s skilled hands. At Dries Van Noten, an unexpected collaboration with Christian Lacroix. Couture techniques were updated with technology where real jacquards were scanned and printed on Tyvek and viscose. Jacquard was approached by Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton as well, but alternated and paired with lace.
In contrast, history influenced craft and design and Alexander McQueen. Garments were made using an ancient Irish technique called beetling — it involves submerging materials in starch and beating them with wooden hammers. For Hedi Slimane at Celine, history was delivered through attitude in a collection which embodied the 1970s through cut and silhouette. Note: the culottes paired with knee-high boots. Jonathan Anderson further evolved his commitment to craft at Loewe through macramé lace and curled collars. Leather was draped and ruched on dresses as if they were made out of silk. The concept of treating materials with a light hand was approached by Virginie Viard at Chanel as well. Her debut ready-to-wear collection was inspired by dancers — chiffon and organza dresses featuring short hemlines were fluttering on the Parisian rooftop set. Instead, at Balenciaga, crinolines offered full-sleeved evening dresses a bouncy silhouette and almost cartoon-like movement.