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We understood the meaning of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino Haute Couture SS 2020 show almost a couple of hours after the end of the défilé – held in the Napoleon III opulence of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. The answer came out as a prophecy from some black and white frames of the movie Qui êtes-vous Polly Magoo, 1966, directed by William Klein. A sequence of images that yesterday night started Jean Paul Gaultier last show, at Théâtre du Châtelet, celebrating fifty years of the brand. Haute Couture, in Polly Magoo, became an epiphany – a baroque innuendo. It’s an allegory. Pierpaolo Piccioli, as he often declared, likes to follow his dreams: his work is where the conscious and subconscious do actually coincide. It’s quiet hard now getting into PPP’s path. The show was a kind of Haute Couture history apotheosis, a vocabulary of quotes, technical and literary reflections – Cristóbal Balenciaga’s volumetric obsession, Schiaparelli and Jacques Fath’s details and fragrances, Hubert de Givenchy’ sign, Roberto Capucci’s baroque constructivism, Yves Saint Laurent vertical shapes, combination of colors and a pink truc en plumes. Piccioli insists that the dream of couture needs many different individualities to become real – that’s true, but at the same time HC it is a unique vision of aesthetic.


Valentino